Saturday, June 11, 2016

For the Love of Barrel Proof and Cask Strength Whiskey




I love barrel proof whiskey.  I am unashamedly a fan of bottled in bond bourbon at 100 proof.  Even barrel proof rye and bourbon such as Michter’s and Wild Turkey Rare Breed, which rarely top 110 proof are exciting.  My true love in barrel proof whiskies are the Bourbon and Rye bottling that top 130 proof.  To be a bourbon, it must be bottled at 80 proof (40%) or higher.  

 The difference in concentration and flavors from 80 to 86 proof, or 80 to 90, or 80 to 100 can be dramatic, all adding more complex flavors to the finished product.  Distillers traditionally cut their barrel strength whiskey with distilled water down to 80 proof (or the desired proof) to increase yields or to make a more standardized product.  Old Forester bottles their standard bourbon at 86 proof, Makers Mark at 90 proof, and others such as Jack Daniel’s and Jim Beam stick to 80 proof for their standard line.

To be considered Bourbon in the United States the whiskey must not be distilled past 160 proof and must not enter the barrel at more than 125 proof(among other things).  Some producers such as Makers Mark and Wild Turkey add water to their distillate before putting it in barrel to lower the barrel entry proof.  This affects what flavors are extracted from the new charred white oak barrel.   Depending on the aging length, evaporation, location of the barrel in the rickhouse and other factors the "Barrel Proof" or "Cask Strength" whiskey removed from the barrel may be higher or lower than when it entered.  In my experience Bourbon tends to be higher and some cask strength Scotch tends to be lower.

My favorite barrel proof bourbons are the Stagg Jr and Elijah Craig,  Stagg Jr comes from Buffalo Trace Distillery and the Elijah Craig is crafted by Heaven Hill.  Both top 130 proof and offer an intense concentration of color and flavor.  Elijah Craig has offered a so called "Hazmat Release" topping 140 proof that shouldn't be brought on commercial airliners.

The Stagg Jr is made from the Buffalo Trace mashbill number one which contains at least 51% corn and 10% or less rye along with malted barley.  Each release differs in proof and the one I have is 132.1 proof.  My cocktail of choice is the Manhattan with Bourbon, sweet vermouth, bitters and cherries.  Barrel proof spirits work especially well in this instance, with the high proof and strong flavors of the bourbon matching the sweetness and herbal complexity of the vermouth, bitters and cherries.  Try the Stagg Jr in one of these and you will not be disappointed.  

The color is   a dark amber.

The nose is rounded with vanilla and oak, cinnamon, creme brulee, brown sugar syrup and coffee.  It becomes more effusive and rich with the addition of a little water or ice.

The palate has some heat of alcohol at 132.1 proof.  There are rich flavors of butter and toffee, some burnt sugar, vanilla and oak. There are some higher toned fruity esters such as banana and raspberry.

The finish is smooth considering the proof.  There is a throat coating buttery caramel character.


My current favorite Bourbon is the Elijah Craig Barrel Proof.  The batch I have clocks in at 135.6 proof.  It runs about sixty dollars.  Tasted neat out of a glancairn glass.

The color is a dark mahogany.

The nose is full, with rich brown sugar notes, sweet caramel, wood and a hint of grain husk, almost dusty.

The palate is huge, rich and concentrated, with some alcohol burn, it is smooth and velvety feeling, with flavors of brown sugar, toffee, wood/oak, some red berry fruit character and cinnamon and nutmeg.

The finish is nice and dry.  There is an instant warming sensation followed by brown sugar syrup, a medium length wood/oak flavor and a hint of coffee bitterness.

This is one that I can highly recommend and will pick up when I have the chance.  They've made nine or ten batches at this point and I'm sure that they all have distinct nuances and flavor profiles along the traditional Elijah Craig sweet/rich/oak flavor profile.


I've enjoyed other barrel proof whiskies including the EH Taylor Barrel Proof Rye.  Many producers are recognizing the demand for barrel proof offerings and are starting to release more as special releases.  Bulleit and Knob Creek are about to release their own barrel proof offerings.

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